The early-morning raid caught the staff at a popular Mumbai restaurant by surprise.

Food safety officials swept into the kitchen, scrutinizing the tandoori ovens and expiration dates on batches of butter. They quickly uncovered a number of issues. One employee was chopping ginger while sitting on the floor; another, preparing chapatis with a rolling pin, was wearing shorts.

“Why aren’t you in pants?” asked an official. But she, and New York Times journalists observing the raid, were soon distracted by a group of cockroaches scurrying past an oil canister.

The inspection last month at Olympia Coffee House found scores of health and safety violations and resulted in an order to close the century-old institution. It was the latest high-profile operation spearheaded by Tukaram Mundhe, the state’s new top food and drug official, whose zero-tolerance campaign against rogue kitchens and sloppy manufacturers has captured India’s imagination.

No business appears to escape Mr. Mundhe’s attention. His staff has inspected famed establishments such as Olympia — where Matt Damon and Tom Holland had tea this summer while promoting “The Odyssey” — as well as street vendors, government cafeterias, high-end restaurants and chains like McDonald’s.